Smarmore Castle and the Taaffe Family

Interesting connection with Matt and Kristin's part of the world in Louth....that Smarmore Castle (see history below) belonged to the Taaffe Family.  Here is the story of Smarmore Castle down the road form Matt and Kristin, Maeve and Connor and their home in Belpatrick, Smarmore....This is the same Taaffe family linked to great-great-great-great grandmother Bridgid Taaffe who eloped with George Mac Donagh in the early 1700's.  Will need to see about staying here at Smarmore ...and see what ghosts may emerge!!!

HISTORY Smarmore Castle has the distinction of being one of the longest continuously inhabited Ireland castle. Records show that William Taaffe had his seat at the castle in 1320 after his family arrived in Ireland from Wales at the turn of the twelfth century. The Taaffes were one of the most famous families in this part of Ireland. Successive generations of Taaffes continued to make Smarmore Castle their main residence in Ireland until the mid 1980s when the property was sold. Smarmore Castle is a very striking building. It is divided into three distinct sections comprising an early 14th century castle-keep with extensions on either side built around 1720 and 1760 respectively. The castle is built of local stone and its walls are eight foot thick. The 18th century courtyard behind the castle was the main stables for the estate in bygone days. The Taaffe family led a very colourful and influential life down through the centuries. They owned many castles throughout Ireland as well as on the continent. They held a variety of different titles and one of them, Eduard Franz Josef Taaffe was the Prime Minister of Austria between 1881 and 1895. Each bedroom is different and represents a different perspective on the Castle's history. The names on the doors such as "the Knights Room", "the Court's Room" and the "Viscounts Room" give a flavour of the castle's illustrious former residents. The area of Smarmore itself played an important part in Ireland's legendary past long before the castle was built. Like many other parts of county Louth the Smarmore area derives its name from the most ancient epic of any European language namely the Táin Bo Cuailgne (The Cattle Raid of Cooley). It was written in this epic legend that Smarmore was the sight at which Cuchulainn prepared a great bath of marrow as directed by custom, so that the wounds of his warrior friend Cethern, who had come to help him in battle and had been grievously wounded, might be healed. Thus the word Smior for marrow and Umar for bath have been Anglicised to the current form Smarmore. Later, Smarmore was the site of a monastic school attended by foreign students. The Smarmore slates, currently in the National Museum of Ireland, were uncovered at Smarmore in 1959. Most of these slates were inscribed by students in Latin and English in the early 15th century. They contained ecclesiastical notes, writing practise, medical and veterinary prescriptions and some musical notation.

A Day at the Library in Sligo - Stories from the Past

August 9:  Today, we went to the Sligo Library of Local History where the MacDonagh papers are lodged. In 2005, I had spend some time going through them - finding out for example about the location of Killoran where grandparents, great grandparents and great-great grandparents are buried.  It was great to go through more papers with Terence there - we bounced back and forth with each discovery.  Because of the meticulous work completed by our father we were easily able to trace out these roots back to the 1700's.

The source of the Sligo MacDonagh family (Tirerril and Corran) springs from one of the three sons, Innechlach son of Muirdhach of the Broad Crown in 702 AD.  Muiredhach had three sons: Conway, Innechlach, and Cathar.  The O Connors and all its allied families such as the MacDermots, MacDonaghs, O Beirnes, and O Flanagans came from this source.  From Muirdheach of Connaught there can be traced an unbroken line back to an Ri Feredach the Just in 75 AD - the "sun, moon and stars" king.

Closer to home! around 1700
George and Bridget Taaffe MacDonagh (great-great-great-great grandfather/mother). George trained as a doctor during the Penal days and forbidden by law to practice served as a tutor to the Taffee family of Strokestown - he eloped with and married daughter of the family Bridget Taaffe.   The couple eloped to Sligo and settled at Lisserlough in the parish of Killoran. The people in the parish being in sore need of a doctor built a home for George and his new wife.  Some time past, and a peddler called Billy Lee brought the news about the couple back to the Taffee family in Strokestown.  Though the Taaffes never saw their daughter again, they sent to her an annual allowance of 100 pounds.  Bridget was fabled in the baronry for her hospitality.  Children born to George and Bridget were Patrick and George.  Patrick lived to be over 80 when he died in 1826.  George studied for the priesthood for a time period, His studies were cut short when he was home on holidays, had an injury imparing his speech (hit on the nose by a snowball) and was unable to continue his studies.

Patrick and Mary Carty Mac Donagh (great-great-great grandfather) born in 1746.  He had 22 acres and tenants. He married Mary Carty and had four children:  Margaret, Peggy, Marie, and James (born 1782).  It was said that his first wife was not his social equal and is blamed for the family misfortunes! Widowed, he later married a Miss Mularkey, she was the sister of Doctor Mullarkey of Coolaney.  They resided in Lisseralough. They had no children.  They held four townlands known as Lloyds four quarters.


James and Elizabeth (Betty) Carty MacDonagh (great-great grandfather/mother) born in 1782. James married Elizabeth Carty of Carrickbauagher (6/22/1815) on the "eve of the bonfire night of the year of the Battle of Waterloo." They had nine children.
Their children: Catherine, Patrick, Mary, Rebecca, Owen, James, Andrew, John (married Maria Clarke),  and Anne.
Emigrating to US:  Rebecca, Owen, James, Andrew, and Anne
Emigrating to England: Mary

Patrick and Catherine McHugh MacDonagh of Carrowdoonen (great grandfather/mother). Patrick was born in 1819 and died in 1904 at the age of 85. He married Catherine McHugh (11/3/1866) daughter of Pat McHugh.  They had three children:
James of Carrowcloover born 1869, married Bridget Flynn
Michael of Coolaney born 1871 married Catherine McCarrick
 Eugene of Ballymote  born 1873 married Anne Hayden

Eugene and Anne Hayden MacDonagh of Ballymote (grandfather/mother).  Eugene born in 1873 married Anne Hayden. He was an agent for the W.H. Ryan Co, Ormond Quay, Dublin.  They had seven children:  Patrick (who dies at 10 months), James Stephen (Chris), Vincent, Mary, Margaret, Eugene, and Elizabeth. Eugene died in 1924 and Anne in 1942.

My father/mother:  James Stephen (Chris)and Betty Blackledge MacDonagh. Chris was born in 1905 Educated at St Nathy's B'dreen, and University College Galway, 1928. Betty was born in Cork in 1917, daughter of Ralph and Etta Doyle Blackledge.  Betty was educated at Loreto Abbey Dalkey.  In 1941, Chris married Betty Blackledge.  Chris died in 1960, and Betty in 2003.  Their children are: Eoghan (b 1942), Etta (b 1946), Terence (b 1952), and Fiona (b 1959).

Donegal Historical Society Meeting

August 8:   Road trip to Dooey to meet up with members of the Donegal Historical Society for their August field trip to the ice house and surroundings at Dooey in NW Donegal.




The icehouse was built by the English overlords in Dooey who used to visit their lands in this remote part of Donegal for hunting and fishing. They quickly discovered the rivers and streams were filled with salmon and other fish.  Using the lessons learned from Sir Francis Bacon about chilling food, they built a sturdy ice house with two foot thick stone walls.  

Revisiting Sites - Killoran and Ballymote

August 7:   Terence, my younger brother, is here visiting this weekend.
Today,  he wanted to visit Killoran graveyard where our grandparents Eugene and Anne), great grandparents Patrick and Catherine, and great-great grandparents James and Betty are buried "under the O Hara Alcove in the church ruins".   We plowed our way through five feet tall nettles and briars to get to the far end of the graveyard and the site of the O Hara alcove.   If anything, the site has become even more overgrown than before when I visited there in 2005.  Terence's boots leaked as we plowed through the wet ground.  This was not a good sign on the first stop of the day!  I had more hiking plans for him!

From Killoran, we drove across the South Sligo countryside over to Ballymote (Baile an Mhota) where our father Chris (James Stephen MacDonagh) grew up as a boy (1905 - 1925).  We pulled into the parking lot of the Church of the Immaculate Conception build in 1857.  Keeping true to my custom of lighting a candle for special intentions, I lit one for Terence praying that all the spirits of the past would surround him and work to bring him comfort.  He and I walked across the road to the see the ruins of the MacDonagh castle.

From out of the ordinary, wonderful extraordinary can occur.  Terence with wet feet from his visit to Killoran stopped in a shop on Gaol Street to buy some dry socks.  The shopkeeper mentioned that Jerry Cassidy across the street knew the history of everyone in the town, and if we were interested in learning about the Mac Donaghs, we ought to talk to Jerry!  While Terence parked the car, I knocked on the Jerry's front door.  A man in his late sixties, early seventies answered the door.
"Are ye Jerry Cassidy"  I asked.
"I am indeed" He says.   Looking at him, I said to him "I hear you are the man that knows the history
of the town, and that you might be able to help my brother and myself learn about the MacDonaghs who lived on Goal Street".  "Aye, indeed" he says "come on in, will you?"
"Yes"  I said, thinking to myself, can I believe what is happening!
Staying open, the pilgrim in me is fearless and open.  What a gift!

An hour late, cups of tea, and friendly talk taking us all over the place, Jerry, his wife Esther (yes, Esther - my name too), Terence and I  have jumped in conversation back and forth across generations of Mac Donaghs.  Esther tells me the person to talk to is Mrs Cryan who lives up the street in the big white house, next to the old cinema. She is 84 years old, and will have stories and knowledge about the  Mac Donaghs. Esther goes to the front door and comes back to tell us that Mrs Cryan is away today.  Her son has the shop across the street - communication is as instant as a mobile!

As it turns out, Jerry and Esther were next door neigbours to Vincent (Vinnie) Mac Donagh, my Dad's younger brother, a bit of a "boyo".   Jerry remembered Daddy and knew about his death and the Donegal Historical Society.  From these conversations Terence and I were able to nail down the house where our father had lived in while growing up in Ballymote.  Esther and Jerry have been married 49 years, have 8 children and 13 grandchildren.  Their home on the main street is over 200 years old ...narrow hallway leading in from the front door down to the back of the house where the kitchen was located.  We sat in the kitchen drinkng tea (with chocolate biscuits brought out on a plate for us).

Settling In

August 6:  Happy Anniversary, Jon ....gra geal mo croi!

How quickly time slipped by this week. Terence arrives in from the ferry boat later this evening for a few days over the weekend through the middle of next week.

This past week was filled of the ordinary settling in and establishing a flow to the days much like my constant  companion the Owenmore river that steadily glides by my writing window.  It is my reminder of time passing. Sometimes I imagine it has stopped just to slow it down. Futile. Like the seconds and minutes  24/7  it slips by.  Ever going on its way out, fulfilling it's destiny to meet the Unchin River below Union Woods and then fast flow on out to Ballisodare and Sligo Bay.

Yesterday,  after a yoga session, I settled into a two hour guided mediation.  Totallly refreshing and aha moments for journalling.
   

August Bank Holiday Weekend

See the slides from the August Bank Holiday Weekend ....


July 30:  Friday at lunch time Maeve and Connor were ready for getting picked up.  We started the jouney out west meeting Matt in Ashbourne just off the M50.  Three hours later we were in Sligo.

On Saturday July 31, we stopped by Yeats forest in Hazelwood ....there we saw the swams and ducks... next stop was to explore Parkes Castle (originally O Rourke's castle), and the walks around it.  There we also made plans to come back on Sunday for the boat ride around Lough Gill. We timed activities between Connor's afternoon naps....After he work up we packed up buckets and spades.  We spent the rest of the time at Strandhill playing and climbing in the sand dunes, castle making and story telling.  Of course, the important stop was made for ice cream and a wee pint to wet the throat!

Sunday August 1, we headed off to catch the 12:30 p.m. boat ride around Lough Gill joining  the Yeats School scholars who were reciting Yeats poetry to match the scenery.  Strandhill was the place of choice for the afternoon....for kite flying and castle building!   By evening time, we were sun kissed and wind swept ....ready for a good nights sleep.

Monday August 2:  Busy busy early morning send off.  What a fun weekend!

Patrick Kavanagh - Poet as Theologian

July 29:  While Maeve and Connor are in their playgroup, I head north towards Carrickmacross to visit the Patrick Kavanagh Rural and Literary Resource Center.   For the next three hours I pour through the centre recognizing that there is a message here for me ........


For a number of years now I have wanted to take the side road to visit the center.  Kavanagh ( who died in 1967) is one of Ireland's leading poets of the 20th century.   The centre is in the old church - the place of his growing up years, all the more interesting linking this with his views on religion and spirituality.  For many people of his day- he was scorned and viewed foolish, if not "touched".  He was forthright in speech calling a spade a spade.

His words of wisdom include " we get to our destiny in the end ....our role is to overcome the difficult art of not caring (what others think) ...few people he said have the courage to be themselves.  He said ... courage ... be of courage ...in the name of Father, Son and Mother.

He identified two simplicities - the simplicity of going away ...and the simplicity of returning.  In the final simplicity we are satisfied being ourselves.

What an amazing and awesome start to my returning ............


Reflection for this pilgrim and others on the journey of discovery:   
Kavanagh was a prophetic voice.  He was highly critical of the Irish Janenism - introduced into Ireland by Cardinal Paul Curren (1803 - 1878) after the synod of Thurles.  This religion was not indigenous to Ireland - it was a "continental religion with its missions and novenas" that  had displaced the druidic culture  and turned Catholicism into a religion of "voteens" and "persons obsessively preoccupied with church based devotions, spurious practices and clerical rubics".  He referred to this chapel-based religion as distancing itself from home and farm life, The old gaelic prayers said in lighting the lamp, churning and making bread were no longer given church prominence.

In his book Tarry Flyn - the holy spirit is in the hills, it is a God spirit who delights, and senses divine energy in the  "bedlam of the hills" and pulses through the the day and growing crops.  Kavanagh's indictment of Janenism goes a long way to explain the grip of the clergy and Catholic Church of his day and up to today.  It helps explain why for so long scandals and abuses were not challenged.  He saw the Janenism of his time as joyless, an insidious denial of life itself,  and a betrayal of Christianity.  See his poem on Lough Derg  (1940) - this also connects with Lavery's painting of Lough Derg pilgrims.

He declared that God is feminine, she is the one whose impulse is gentle, generous, and affirming of creativity. His God has the properties of a Celtic Ri: comley, generous bountiful, clothed in a mist of textures and colors.

Kavanagh's spirituality reinstates the local, and rediscovers God in the "bits and pieces".  He constructs a theology from the ordinary - things muddied with honest dirt are part of the iridescence of God ..."in the sows rooting where the hen scratches, we dipped our fingers in the pocket of God."