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Tuesday, August 31, 2010

The Big House in Ireland

August 31:
National Heritage Week ended this past week on Sunday.  It was a week filled with rich experiences and celebrations of Irish culture, history, music and environment.   One trip this week locally was taken to the  restored Annaghmore Schoolhouse just 3 - 4 kms outside Collooney.   It was built and opened in the 1860's by the O'Hara family so that children of tenants on the O'Hara estate could attend school.   Annaghmore was the principal seat of the O'Haras in the later medieval period.  Unlike, the O' Rourkes,  O'Conors,  MacDonaghs, or the MacDermots,  the O'Haras of Annaghmore were the only family of Gaelic origin in Sligo to survive as landowners through the 17th century and subsequent penal days.  In 1820, a  big country house in Annaghmore was built to replace the original O'Hara house.   In 1860, CW O'Hara enlarged the house to the design of architect James Franklin Fuller. (See Archaeological Inventory of South Sligo, Vol 1).

On Sunday, while on my way to the old schoolhouse, through the trees I catch sign of this "big" house.  I cant help but ponder the demise of the old Gaelic families and resourcefulness of those who survived and held onto their lands.  What would the Sligo landscape look like if other families had survived?  This line of thought goes a long way in helping to explain how I feel about the big houses like  Cooperhill, Markree Castle, Templehouse, Lissadell, and the Rockingham Estate at Lough Key.

The immigrant stories from tenants of the Gore-Both's estate in Lissadell taken from ship records tell of the hardship and injustices suffered during the Famine years. It was interesting for me that while searching through the 1911 Irish census, I found that my father's family in Ballymote were tenants of the Gore-Booths.  Lands owned by the Gore Booths extended down past the Ballymote area.  My grandparents would have paid rent to the Gore Booth family for their meager home on 32 Goal Street - for land that once had belonged to the Gaelic families.

Life in the big houses of Ireland was sustained on the backs and brokenness of the people who had their land occupied and taken from them.  I cannot enter one of these houses on  a tour or visit without feeling the pain of history.

Monday, August 30, 2010

Another Climb up Knocknarea

August 30:
Once more,  another climb up to the top Knocknarea to visit Queen Maeve's cairn.  I take a special flat stone with me in the shape of the mountain and bring it back down again.  It will be my reminder of  the task at hand to finish this blogsite and to translate it into a book format.

We are having a high pressure weather cell over Ireland at the moment creating stunning warm, dry weather.  There is no place like Ireland when the weather is like this.  I think this is the time when all those lovely blue skied sunny postcard pictures of Ireland are taken.

On our way up to Knocknarea, we stopped at Breeogue Pottery off from the Ransbourgh roundabout.  It is here that we have had the baby hand and footprints of Maeve and Connor cast.  Grainne has come to know us from our past visits.  This time, we have decided to come back so we can buy a lovely piece of glazed pottery she crafted about three years ago.  We have eyed it each visit there.   It is a tall 3 foot high glazed ceramic tower wired with an electric light bulb inside it.  The light comes out the side  through a scattering of small cutout star holes created in the tower.  This lit tower we will place in the hall to be a beacon for us, and to welcome all who visit us and enter our home here in Collooney.
This picture is of Maeve's cairn
on the top of Knocknarea.

In the background is Sligo bay,
Benbulbin and Donegal Bluestack Mountains


The climb up to the top of the Knocknarea took about 35 minutes and rewarded us with a view of five counties, Sligo and the view of Benbulbin and the hills of Kesh Corran,  off over to Donegal and the Bluestack mountains as well as majestic Slieve League,  to the south far off into Mayo,  across over to the mountains of Leitrim,  and into Roscommon. 


After spending time on the top of the mountain, we weaved our back back down the stony path (about 3.5 km)  with the thought that the Venue and a pint to refresh us was not far away.

Homecoming, Landscapes and Rootedness - 10 days in August

August 30:  The time spent the past two weeks has been richly rewarded with insights.  As it turned out, it was a distraction to create files, spend the time downloading pictures so that I could write a blog entry.  Instead of all the busy work associated with maintaining the blog, I carried this small notebook and jotted down momentary thoughts and insights about people and places.  I have been  inspired and changed by what I have seen and heard, looked at and listened to over the past ten to twelve days.   There will be a change in my blog writing and the framework I am using.  I want to explore deeper the experiences of homecoming, landscapes and rootedness.  No matter where you wander through life, if you have a place you call home, what does it means to return to that place, the land that sings deep in your soul?

On my first day back on this home trip,  Patrick Kavaugh's words sank deep into me that  "we get to our destiny in the end".   As I think back on the past weeks, the firmly spoken words of this man from Monahan, have followed me everywhere.  He talked of a simplicity of going away and of returning.   I want to explore that more deeply.

The last two weeks have been a wonderful mixture of time.  The time spent at Strandhill in Sligo sequestered in the shelter of the sand dunes.  These were simple carefree days with my 5 year old and 2 year old grandchildren building sandcastles, eating ice creams,  having a pub lunch or two (often after the ice cream), and flying our kites high and low, racing after their trails and loosing them in the tall dune grasses.   I was  brought back into the memories of  my own childhood at Rossnowlagh beach.

Time was also taken up with a trip up to Dublin's National Concert Hall so we could catch  RTE Orchestra's musical tribute to Bill Whelan and his works from Timedance (1981) to Riverdance (1994) to the spell binding "Seville Suite"  composed in 1992 as a precussor to Riverdance.   Even with all his travels, and his international reputation Bill Whelan spoke of his strong  his sense of home, of landscape and rootedness in Connemara and in traditional irish music and instruments.  The concert was a 21st  century counterpart of a bardic experience.

What did it mean for me to be in Dublin again?  I always have mixed feelings about Dublin. Here I went to a boarding school for five years out in Dalkey.  Mention Dalkey these days and at once people think of Enya, U-2, Maeve Binchy and others.  On the one hand, and on the surface, the energy and life in Dublin is infectious.  It is a place to be. I love the choice of restaurants,  wine bars, and pubs, places to hang out, and the regeneration of historic sites like Collins Barracks, Kilmanham Goal, and Smithfield.

Yet, I also feel that it is  a city devoured and devouring. The Celtic tiger ran loose touching every facet of the city's wealth and culture.  Dublin lost its small small town soul.  It is has evolved into a sleek slick and multi-cultural European city with more in common with its European counterparts that with regional cities outside the Pale.

What is missing in Dublin is the connectedness with the rest of Ireland.  Is there something about the politics of a capital city that separates it from the rest of the country. A sort of inside and outside the belt phenomenon.  I get even more of a sense of distance when I am in Dublin now than I did before.  While there we stayed at the Buswell Hotel off Kildare Street (and Leinster house) on Molesworth Street.  An internet find with a great price for a decent hotel in the city center - one more sign of the impact of the Irish recession on hotel prices. The hotel is housed in a structure that dates back to the Georgian period and was built in 1736.  The actual hotel started on this site in about 1861.  The ambiance of the hotel from the reception to the bars reeked of being close to Leinster House.  Walking past the leather chairs and dark paneled bar to the right of reception,  on our way out for the day, I caught a glimpse of several grey hair politico's deep in conversation.  I could nt help but wonder how many political conversations have taken place here over the years.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Childhood Connections Staying Current

August 17:   Eleanor, Siobhan and Martina came over for lunch and to spend the afternoon together.

We all went to St Mary's National School in Stranorlar from preschool through age 11-12 years.   There is a picture from the past that  I must dig it out and look at it again. We are all in it with our fresh eager little faces!  More mature now but still as lively as ever, always ready for adventures, we had good fun hanging out, chatting and reminiscing. Eleanor, Martina and I went to the Finn Colasite also. So we had more stories about the tender teen years and the boys and girls we knew!   My time at the Finn College was short lived when I was pulled out to follow my mothers footsteps and  be sent to a boarding school in Dublin, Loreto Abbey, Dalkey.  That was the end of "our together" le ceile  playful school years as we went separate ways.

It is a good thing to see the connectiveness and closure points of life's journey.  To celebrate how where we are at any time is rich with experiences that connect and bind us, past and present!   


The thought that has come to mind for me are the words from the Creation story in scripture ..."it was good".  It is a creative act to live a connected life. It is a good thing.

Unknown to us at the time, Martina attended the same teachers college in England as I did, only several years after me.  When I qualified, I headed for a year to the US, to Kansas. When she qualified,  she went on to teach in Strabane in County Tyrone during some of the very tough "troubles years" of the 1970's.  Later she received a Fulbright to teach for a year in Denver, Colorado.  Now in a phased retirement, she teaches part-time and lives outside Ballybofey with her partner Patrick who she met in Colorado.  Eleanor's husband, Declan,  is a retired Commandant from the Irish Army who served in overseas assignments and they spent several years in Brussels with the EU.  Declan is the current president of the Donegal Historical Society.  He is doing an amazingly organized job ...just the fresh blood they needed in the DHS.  Siobhan, the oldest member of the group, lives in Ballybofey.  She has been diagnosed with Parkensons.  Several years ago, when she retired as a hair stylist, she built a small one person beauty station in her brand new house so she could keep her favorite customers coming.  Siobhan is not unlike Fran, Jon's mother, in that she has such a keen interest in all things going on and staying young at heart.

Monday, August 16, 2010

Travelling Back and Blueberry Picking Weekend

August 14 and 15:  The early morning drive across the Midlands on Saturday took Maeve and I  four hours.  Lashing rain for the first hour or so slowed us down but not Maeve she chit chatted about the past few days. We waved goodbye to some familiar sites as we flew by ...the wistful Gaelic Chieftain standing watch looking out over the Curlew Mountains and Lough Arrow and Lough Gill,  the goodbye "slan go foill" wave to Lough Key Forest Park, and on into Roscommon.   A little over mid-point, we stopped in Mullingar at Genesis for a stroll through their shop and a morning break in their sweet little coffee shop.  We ordered freshly baked fruit scones, raspberry jam and cream ....just right to keep us going.  The rest of the way to Belpatrick was steady going mostly on the faster motorway into Dublin and around the link road to pick up the N2 to Slane and Collon.

It is so special to spend time alone with a grandchild. The mix and wisdom of the two generations plants seeds of hope and blessing.  It is also a reaping time,  a reminder that the fruits of parenting lies in the next generation.  Our sons Chris, Matt and Jeff, each following their own paths have become wonderful caring parents for our six grandchildren.

On Sunday,  Matt and Kristin had planned a special trip down to Derryvilla Farm in  County Offaly to pick blueberries ....http://ireland-guide.com/article/blueberries.8834.html

HISTORY:
The Derryvilla Blueberry Farm is owned by John Seager and managed by Nuala O’Donoghue. Blueberry farming is labour intensive; at the start of each year the bushes are hand pruned and the grasses cut. They then flower in May and by mid-July, weather permitting, handpicking begins.

They’re closely related to the
native Irish fraughan or bilberry, a fruit associated with celebration, feasting and fertility, and the much bigger cultivated berry is a juicy, versatile fruit that can be used in the same ways, fresh or in baking, desserts, preserves and drinks.

The history of Derryvilla Blueberry Farm involves a number of dedicated farming pioneers including, for the last five years, Nuala O’Donoghue who has been involved, in particular, with development of the innovative Blueberry Tonic and delicious blueberry preserves – both of which are out-sourced to other well-known artisan food producers such as Con Traas of The Apple Farm in Clonmel and Ciara Morris of Slieve Bloom Foods.
Irish Food Writers Guild Awards - BlueberriesNo pesticides are used at Derryvilla and most of their delicious, naturally grown berries and the products made with them – a tangy blueberry tonic and preserves - are supplied directly to fruit traders and selected retailers, or sold at Farmleigh Food Market (www.farmleigh.ie.) 

Friday, August 13, 2010

A Special Trip to Sligo

August 11:   Up early to catch the 7:09 a.m. train for the roundtrip journey to pick Maeve up at Connolly Station in Dublin, and come back to Sligo for her summer adventure with Mamo.  It is for sure that she is awake and rearing to go.  Last night all her bags were packed.  She is off to Sligo for a few days visit with Mamo by herself.  Mamo is excited too!

Matt, Maeve and I met up at Connolly Station.  They had taken the Luas to get over from Matt's work on Parnell Square. Our train back over to Sligo was on one of Ireland's new trains - made for a great 3 hour  ride back. Looks like it will be busy the next few days with little time or no time for blogging .....

August 13:  It is just 9:00 p.m.  Maeve is down fast asleep. I am ready to hit the hay too ....zzzzz.
We head back to Belpatrick tomorrow.  What a busy fun time we have had these past three days - this is very special for a Mamo to be able to spent this time together just the two of us.

The trip would not have been complete without going to Strandhill, for climbing sand dunes, and building sand castles - we brought so much sand home to Collooney with us in our shoes, pants, pockets, and anything else that would carry sand!  Yesterday, a trip to see Toy Story 3 brought back memories of seeing it with Caitlin and Christian earlier this summer in DC.  Grandchildren are the best!

We even had a visitor.  Taking a break from golf, Terence came for dinner last night and a game of snakes and ladders afterwards.  He taught Maeve a few tricks about getting forward which she used and then promptly beat the two of us easily.

My camera was broken so no pictures of the beach.  We made a side trip to buy a new camera - it had to be charged and of course the manual read so I could get it working.

Here are some pictures from today when we went over to Lough Key for a picnic lunch and adventure park.
HISTORY:   Lough Key Forest Park is located in an area of great historical interest and is comprised of vast woodland and numerous islands. There is reference to Castle Island in the annals of Lough Ce as early as 1184. During this time the park was called Moylurg and the Kings of Moylurg were the McDermotts.

The McDermott's official residence was on The Rock, now called Castle Island . As space was limited on this small island they had another residence on the mainland where the Moylurg Tower stands today. The McDermotts ruled this area until the 17th century when it was granted to the King family from England under the Cromwellian settlement.



On the way stopped at the Gaelic Chieftain sculpture just off the N-4.   The sculpture itself commemorates the Battle of the Curlew Mountains in 1599 - which was the beginning of the demise of the Gaelic chieftains ending tragically with their ultimate defeat by the English at the Battle of Kinsale in 1601.

It was an outdoors day with lots of fresh air, just perfect for coming home to enjoy a pasta dinner (Maeve's favorite), getting into "jammies" and playing playdough games.

We will leave the packing till the morning!

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Smarmore Castle and the Taaffe Family

Interesting connection with Matt and Kristin's part of the world in Louth....that Smarmore Castle (see history below) belonged to the Taaffe Family.  Here is the story of Smarmore Castle down the road form Matt and Kristin, Maeve and Connor and their home in Belpatrick, Smarmore....This is the same Taaffe family linked to great-great-great-great grandmother Bridgid Taaffe who eloped with George Mac Donagh in the early 1700's.  Will need to see about staying here at Smarmore ...and see what ghosts may emerge!!!





HISTORY

Smarmore Castle has the distinction of being one of the longest continuously inhabited Ireland castle. Records show that William Taaffe had his seat at the castle in 1320 after his family arrived in Ireland from Wales at the turn of the twelfth century. The Taaffes were one of the most famous families in this part of Ireland. Successive generations of Taaffes continued to make Smarmore Castle their main residence in Ireland until the mid 1980s when the property was sold.
Smarmore Castle is a very striking building. It is divided into three distinct sections comprising an early 14th century castle-keep with extensions on either side built around 1720 and 1760 respectively. The castle is built of local stone and its walls are eight foot thick. The 18th century courtyard behind the castle was the main stables for the estate in bygone days.
The Taaffe family led a very colourful and influential life down through the centuries. They owned many castles throughout Ireland as well as on the continent. They held a variety of different titles and one of them, Eduard Franz Josef Taaffe was the Prime Minister of Austria between 1881 and 1895. Each bedroom is different and represents a different perspective on the Castle's history. The names on the doors such as "the Knights Room", "the Court's Room" and the "Viscounts Room" give a flavour of the castle's illustrious former residents.

The area of Smarmore itself played an important part in Ireland's legendary past long before the castle was built. Like many other parts of county Louth the Smarmore area derives its name from the most ancient epic of any European language namely the Táin Bo Cuailgne (The Cattle Raid of Cooley). It was written in this epic legend that Smarmore was the sight at which Cuchulainn prepared a great bath of marrow as directed by custom, so that the wounds of his warrior friend Cethern, who had come to help him in battle and had been grievously wounded, might be healed. Thus the word Smior for marrow and Umar for bath have been Anglicised to the current form Smarmore. Later, Smarmore was the site of a monastic school attended by foreign students. The Smarmore slates, currently in the National Museum of Ireland, were uncovered at Smarmore in 1959. Most of these slates were inscribed by students in Latin and English in the early 15th century. They contained ecclesiastical notes, writing practise, medical and veterinary prescriptions and some musical notation.

Monday, August 9, 2010

A Day at the Library in Sligo - Stories from the Past

August 9:  Today, we went to the Sligo Library of Local History where the MacDonagh papers are lodged. In 2005, I had spend some time going through them - finding out for example about the location of Killoran where grandparents, great grandparents and great-great grandparents are buried.  It was great to go through more papers with Terence there - we bounced back and forth with each discovery.  Because of the meticulous work completed by our father we were easily able to trace out these roots back to the 1700's.

The source of the Sligo MacDonagh family (Tirerril and Corran) springs from one of the three sons, Innechlach son of Muirdhach of the Broad Crown in 702 AD.  Muiredhach had three sons: Conway, Innechlach, and Cathar.  The O Connors and all its allied families such as the MacDermots, MacDonaghs, O Beirnes, and O Flanagans came from this source.  From Muirdheach of Connaught there can be traced an unbroken line back to an Ri Feredach the Just in 75 AD - the "sun, moon and stars" king.

Closer to home! around 1700
George and Bridget Taaffe MacDonagh (great-great-great-great grandfather/mother). George trained as a doctor during the Penal days and forbidden by law to practice served as a tutor to the Taffee family of Strokestown - he eloped with and married daughter of the family Bridget Taaffe.   The couple eloped to Sligo and settled at Lisserlough in the parish of Killoran. The people in the parish being in sore need of a doctor built a home for George and his new wife.  Some time past, and a peddler called Billy Lee brought the news about the couple back to the Taffee family in Strokestown.  Though the Taaffes never saw their daughter again, they sent to her an annual allowance of 100 pounds.  Bridget was fabled in the baronry for her hospitality.  Children born to George and Bridget were Patrick and George.  Patrick lived to be over 80 when he died in 1826.  George studied for the priesthood for a time period, His studies were cut short when he was home on holidays, had an injury imparing his speech (hit on the nose by a snowball) and was unable to continue his studies.

Patrick and Mary Carty Mac Donagh (great-great-great grandfather) born in 1746.  He had 22 acres and tenants. He married Mary Carty and had four children:  Margaret, Peggy, Marie, and James (born 1782).  It was said that his first wife was not his social equal and is blamed for the family misfortunes! Widowed, he later married a Miss Mularkey, she was the sister of Doctor Mullarkey of Coolaney.  They resided in Lisseralough. They had no children.  They held four townlands known as Lloyds four quarters.


James and Elizabeth (Betty) Carty MacDonagh (great-great grandfather/mother) born in 1782. James married Elizabeth Carty of Carrickbauagher (6/22/1815) on the "eve of the bonfire night of the year of the Battle of Waterloo." They had nine children.
Their children: Catherine, Patrick, Mary, Rebecca, Owen, James, Andrew, John (married Maria Clarke),  and Anne.
Emigrating to US:  Rebecca, Owen, James, Andrew, and Anne
Emigrating to England: Mary

Patrick and Catherine McHugh MacDonagh of Carrowdoonen (great grandfather/mother). Patrick was born in 1819 and died in 1904 at the age of 85. He married Catherine McHugh (11/3/1866) daughter of Pat McHugh.  They had three children:
James of Carrowcloover born 1869, married Bridget Flynn
Michael of Coolaney born 1871 married Catherine McCarrick
 Eugene of Ballymote  born 1873 married Anne Hayden

Eugene and Anne Hayden MacDonagh of Ballymote (grandfather/mother).  Eugene born in 1873 married Anne Hayden. He was an agent for the W.H. Ryan Co, Ormond Quay, Dublin.  They had seven children:  Patrick (who dies at 10 months), James Stephen (Chris), Vincent, Mary, Margaret, Eugene, and Elizabeth. Eugene died in 1924 and Anne in 1942.

My father/mother:  James Stephen (Chris)and Betty Blackledge MacDonagh. Chris was born in 1905 Educated at St Nathy's B'dreen, and University College Galway, 1928. Betty was born in Cork in 1917, daughter of Ralph and Etta Doyle Blackledge.  Betty was educated at Loreto Abbey Dalkey.  In 1941, Chris married Betty Blackledge.  Chris died in 1960, and Betty in 2003.  Their children are: Eoghan (b 1942), Etta (b 1946), Terence (b 1952), and Fiona (b 1959).

Donegal Historical Society Meeting

August 8:   Road trip to Dooey to meet up with members of the Donegal Historical Society for their August field trip to the ice house and surroundings at Dooey in NW Donegal.




The icehouse was built by the English overlords in Dooey who used to visit their lands in this remote part of Donegal for hunting and fishing. They quickly discovered the rivers and streams were filled with salmon and other fish.  Using the lessons learned from Sir Francis Bacon about chilling food, they built a sturdy ice house with two foot thick stone walls.  

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Revisiting Sites - Killoran and Ballymote

August 7:   Terence, my younger brother, is here visiting this weekend.
Today,  he wanted to visit Killoran graveyard where our grandparents Eugene and Anne), great grandparents Patrick and Catherine, and great-great grandparents James and Betty are buried "under the O Hara Alcove in the church ruins".   We plowed our way through five feet tall nettles and briars to get to the far end of the graveyard and the site of the O Hara alcove.   If anything, the site has become even more overgrown than before when I visited there in 2005.  Terence's boots leaked as we plowed through the wet ground.  This was not a good sign on the first stop of the day!  I had more hiking plans for him!

From Killoran, we drove across the South Sligo countryside over to Ballymote (Baile an Mhota) where our father Chris (James Stephen MacDonagh) grew up as a boy (1905 - 1925).  We pulled into the parking lot of the Church of the Immaculate Conception build in 1857.  Keeping true to my custom of lighting a candle for special intentions, I lit one for Terence praying that all the spirits of the past would surround him and work to bring him comfort.  He and I walked across the road to the see the ruins of the MacDonagh castle.

From out of the ordinary, wonderful extraordinary can occur.  Terence with wet feet from his visit to Killoran stopped in a shop on Gaol Street to buy some dry socks.  The shopkeeper mentioned that Jerry Cassidy across the street knew the history of everyone in the town, and if we were interested in learning about the Mac Donaghs, we ought to talk to Jerry!  While Terence parked the car, I knocked on the Jerry's front door.  A man in his late sixties, early seventies answered the door.
"Are ye Jerry Cassidy"  I asked.
"I am indeed" He says.   Looking at him, I said to him "I hear you are the man that knows the history
of the town, and that you might be able to help my brother and myself learn about the MacDonaghs who lived on Goal Street".  "Aye, indeed" he says "come on in, will you?"
"Yes"  I said, thinking to myself, can I believe what is happening!
Staying open, the pilgrim in me is fearless and open.  What a gift!

An hour late, cups of tea, and friendly talk taking us all over the place, Jerry, his wife Esther (yes, Esther - my name too), Terence and I  have jumped in conversation back and forth across generations of Mac Donaghs.  Esther tells me the person to talk to is Mrs Cryan who lives up the street in the big white house, next to the old cinema. She is 84 years old, and will have stories and knowledge about the  Mac Donaghs. Esther goes to the front door and comes back to tell us that Mrs Cryan is away today.  Her son has the shop across the street - communication is as instant as a mobile!

As it turns out, Jerry and Esther were next door neigbours to Vincent (Vinnie) Mac Donagh, my Dad's younger brother, a bit of a "boyo".   Jerry remembered Daddy and knew about his death and the Donegal Historical Society.  From these conversations Terence and I were able to nail down the house where our father had lived in while growing up in Ballymote.  Esther and Jerry have been married 49 years, have 8 children and 13 grandchildren.  Their home on the main street is over 200 years old ...narrow hallway leading in from the front door down to the back of the house where the kitchen was located.  We sat in the kitchen drinkng tea (with chocolate biscuits brought out on a plate for us).

Friday, August 6, 2010

Settling In

August 6:  Happy Anniversary, Jon ....gra geal mo croi!

How quickly time slipped by this week. Terence arrives in from the ferry boat later this evening for a few days over the weekend through the middle of next week.

This past week was filled of the ordinary settling in and establishing a flow to the days much like my constant  companion the Owenmore river that steadily glides by my writing window.  It is my reminder of time passing. Sometimes I imagine it has stopped just to slow it down. Futile. Like the seconds and minutes  24/7  it slips by.  Ever going on its way out, fulfilling it's destiny to meet the Unchin River below Union Woods and then fast flow on out to Ballisodare and Sligo Bay.

Yesterday,  after a yoga session, I settled into a two hour guided mediation.  Totallly refreshing and aha moments for journalling.
   

Monday, August 2, 2010

August Bank Holiday Weekend

See the slides from the August Bank Holiday Weekend ....


July 30:  Friday at lunch time Maeve and Connor were ready for getting picked up.  We started the jouney out west meeting Matt in Ashbourne just off the M50.  Three hours later we were in Sligo.

On Saturday July 31, we stopped by Yeats forest in Hazelwood ....there we saw the swams and ducks... next stop was to explore Parkes Castle (originally O Rourke's castle), and the walks around it.  There we also made plans to come back on Sunday for the boat ride around Lough Gill. We timed activities between Connor's afternoon naps....After he work up we packed up buckets and spades.  We spent the rest of the time at Strandhill playing and climbing in the sand dunes, castle making and story telling.  Of course, the important stop was made for ice cream and a wee pint to wet the throat!

Sunday August 1, we headed off to catch the 12:30 p.m. boat ride around Lough Gill joining  the Yeats School scholars who were reciting Yeats poetry to match the scenery.  Strandhill was the place of choice for the afternoon....for kite flying and castle building!   By evening time, we were sun kissed and wind swept ....ready for a good nights sleep.

Monday August 2:  Busy busy early morning send off.  What a fun weekend!


Thursday, July 29, 2010

Patrick Kavanagh - Poet as Theologian

July 29:  While Maeve and Connor are in their playgroup, I head north towards Carrickmacross to visit the Patrick Kavanagh Rural and Literary Resource Center.   For the next three hours I pour through the centre recognizing that there is a message here for me ........


For a number of years now I have wanted to take the side road to visit the center.  Kavanagh ( who died in 1967) is one of Ireland's leading poets of the 20th century.   The centre is in the old church - the place of his growing up years, all the more interesting linking this with his views on religion and spirituality.  For many people of his day- he was scorned and viewed foolish, if not "touched".  He was forthright in speech calling a spade a spade.

His words of wisdom include " we get to our destiny in the end ....our role is to overcome the difficult art of not caring (what others think) ...few people he said have the courage to be themselves.  He said ... courage ... be of courage ...in the name of Father, Son and Mother.

He identified two simplicities - the simplicity of going away ...and the simplicity of returning.  In the final simplicity we are satisfied being ourselves.

What an amazing and awesome start to my returning ............


Reflection for this pilgrim and others on the journey of discovery:   
Kavanagh was a prophetic voice.  He was highly critical of the Irish Janenism - introduced into Ireland by Cardinal Paul Curren (1803 - 1878) after the synod of Thurles.  This religion was not indigenous to Ireland - it was a "continental religion with its missions and novenas" that  had displaced the druidic culture  and turned Catholicism into a religion of "voteens" and "persons obsessively preoccupied with church based devotions, spurious practices and clerical rubics".  He referred to this chapel-based religion as distancing itself from home and farm life, The old gaelic prayers said in lighting the lamp, churning and making bread were no longer given church prominence.

In his book Tarry Flyn - the holy spirit is in the hills, it is a God spirit who delights, and senses divine energy in the  "bedlam of the hills" and pulses through the the day and growing crops.  Kavanagh's indictment of Janenism goes a long way to explain the grip of the clergy and Catholic Church of his day and up to today.  It helps explain why for so long scandals and abuses were not challenged.  He saw the Janenism of his time as joyless, an insidious denial of life itself,  and a betrayal of Christianity.  See his poem on Lough Derg  (1940) - this also connects with Lavery's painting of Lough Derg pilgrims.

He declared that God is feminine, she is the one whose impulse is gentle, generous, and affirming of creativity. His God has the properties of a Celtic Ri: comley, generous bountiful, clothed in a mist of textures and colors.

Kavanagh's spirituality reinstates the local, and rediscovers God in the "bits and pieces".  He constructs a theology from the ordinary - things muddied with honest dirt are part of the iridescence of God ..."in the sows rooting where the hen scratches, we dipped our fingers in the pocket of God."

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

July 28 2010: Arrived in Dublin

Just what you want - an uneventful flight!  We arrived half hour early.
If I think back to 2005, this is a very different landing from that June day....when I felt all the uncertainties of a returning emigrant ....

An seú lá de mhí Mheithimh 2005
Arrival day in Dublin: Monday June 6, 2.
Here I am landed once again in Dublin. What a great word landed! It describes my search where is it that I need to land? Or be landed? This search began almost the day I left living in Ireland 45 years ago after my Father’s death. I exiled through Belfast on a hot summer day in June 1960. Today, I return in a different way from all my previous trips here. I am a pilgrim seeking what it means to live between two lands – idir dhá tire? Cén fad áith?

My plane was delayed leaving Chicago for over an hour and so I did not arrive in till after 10:00 a.m What is a little delay of an hour I have waited 45 years to do this! It is totally unclear to me what lessons I am to learn and what changes will occur in my life, what is only important at this point is that I start the journey.  

Standing waiting for my bags, I recall looking at my watch and seeing it was 10:30, and thinking what am I doing? What do I intend for this journey? .....

As I come out the doors, there is Matt waiting off to the side in a sea of other faces ...... Walking out to the car, I say to myself slow down and absorb what it means to connect. I have a huge cloak to remove – the whole mantle of “getting things done” and being productive. More lessons to come I feel or is it fear?

This July day in 2010,  I depart the plane with a knowing step, feeling I have come home again, all the while with one hand trying to get the mobile phone to work, and the other hand pulling my computer bag.   I am muttering to myself as the battery is dead, and I have steps to climb.  Walking along through the hallways, past the Vodaphone signs, down the stairs, and past the glass screen separating the US arrivals from the departing passengers already cleared for their returning US flight.  Silent, solemn looking, a collection of strangers waiting for their flight.  I am struck by the irishness of the faces through the lounge glass window.  Finally passport control, more muttering my Irish passport was nt processed in time for this trip.  I must go through the longer non-EU line.

Matt will be waiting (again) to pick me up, bless his heart.  It is a work day for him. He needs to head off to a meeting with Dublin Council before 11.   Our early landing will have helped if the luggage is off loaded in a timely way.   Not for me. Finally my big red bag come through at the very end - loosing precious time with the longer wait.  Loading up my baggage on to the cart, I make my way into the arrival hall, and immediately see Matt waving at me.  Off we go to the car parking lot.

The traffic is heavy as we head in the direction of Central Dublin and Parnell Square to the side street where Matt's office is located.  This side of Parnell Square is a mixture of old and new buildings, SinnFein, and Irish Trade Union offices line this side of Parnell Square. Matt's office is down a business lane with other new business model office sites, sort of incubator like buildings for artsy firms.  Leaving my bags to go separate ways, he to his meeeting and me to walk over to the Hugh Lane Gallery as I wait for his meeting to finish and meet up for lunch near the Half'penny Bridge.  There is an exhibition to see at the Hugh Lane: The Passion and the Politics - Sir John Lavery: The Salon Revisited

True to the pilgrim spirit, on my walk over to the Hugh Lane gallery, I meet a woman who is lost happening to be looking for the gallery.  We talk on the way over.  She is an artist from Longford.  For the next couple of hours I completely get lost in the exhibition almost missing the time to meet up with Matt for lunch.

Later in the afternoon,  we leave town for Ardee. It is pick up time at the creche...and time for play with Maeve and Connor till bedtime.  Sleep comes very easily later that evening after a full day of travelling, arriving and connecting.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Halseys of Southampton

July 27:   Taking advantage of the close proximity of Long Island on this visit,  Jon and I headed out to Southampton for the day.  We kept an eye also on the time for my departure to Dublin from JFK later that evening.

Southampton is the location where Thomas Halsey landed in 1640 and homesteaded this property in 1648 with his family.  Jon is descended from this Thomas Halsey.   The Halsey home is actually the oldest standing home in Long Island.

After lunch, we spent the rest of the afternoon with a wonderful creative woman Lori with the Southampton Historical Society pouring through Halsey archives.

We have promised ourselves to return here - in the meantime, Can't you see Jon as an early settler?

It is interesting to me that as I have come to embrace my Irish-American story it has opened me to embracing and valuing the stories of the "emigrant's story" in all of us.  I am so pleased that Jon is connecting with his ancestors.  It also seemed as if it was a coming home working with another Historical Society.

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Sunday in NYC

July 25: On Sunday morning, we went to the 10:15 a.m. Mass at the Cathedral of St Patrick. Archbishop Dolan gave the homily - felt he missed a golden opportunity in his homily to affirm the persistence and resilience of today's Catholics in light of the abuse scandals - it would have been perfect to link the gospel with today's realities (Gospel Luke 11: 1 - 13).

After Mass
we headed off for the Emily Dickinson exhibit at the Botanical Gardens. We made a wonderful discovery while there that there is a sweet children's garden full of interesting and exciting adventures to explore.

While we were there there was a fierce storm sufficiently severe to shut down the gardens because of falling trees.

Passing Through New York - from home to home

When I wrote the heading "passing through New York" I thought of the hundreds of immigrants in the last century and before who "passed through New York", and here in 2010 I am going the other way stopping off on my way back home to Ireland.

What reflections do I have with this passing through. I realize that I am a person of two worlds - the american emigrant who has embraced what it means to be an american, who has settled and made this great country her homeland while still holding onto her irish emigrant status. I do realize what this means for me - I am a person of two worlds, an outsider in both.

Friday, July 23, 2010

Saturday Morning At Central Park's Toddler Playground



Now I have time to think back across the last ten days.
July 23: We travelled by car for the nine to ten hour car trip from Michigan to New York arriving at Jeff and Kendra's place in early afternoon. Kendra, Emmet, Jon and I headed to Harlem to take a tour of the affordable housing building where Kendra has spent much time and energy making it a reality. Jeff joined us for the tour. It makes me so proud of Kendra and the work she does to see this building.
July 24: Emmet, Mamo and Dadeo went to the Toddler playground at Central park while Jeff and Kendra took a break. Later in the afternoon we went to MOMA for an exhibition on climate change: Rising Currents (see exhibitions). On our way home, we stopped for a bite to eat at a Turkish restaurant.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Two weeks to go

Part of the pilgrim journey is staying true to the preparation. How is the spirit calling me this time to prepare?

There is this feeling, this way of knowing that the pilgrim journey of 2005 continues for me five years later in 2010. I am building upon what was started with my 2005 pilgrim journey.

My frequent journeys back and forth to Ireland since 2005 have been healing me, shaping me, preparing me, for the next stage of my life.